Ninun asal kecap tina tinun, kecap lemesna nepa, nyaéta carana nyieun
lawon keur bahan nyieun papakéan. Ti iraha mimitina urang Sunda bisa ninun? Teu
kapaluruh. Ngan lamun ditilik tina sababaraha dongéng atawa légénda, sigana
kaweruh ninun téh geus aya ti baheula mula.
Siga dina dongéng Nini Antéh, kapan kecap antéh gé asalna tina kecap
kantéh nu hartina bola atawa benang. Kitu deui dina légénda Sangkuriang, Dayang
Sumbi nu keur kasorang lungsé, toropong paranti ninun murag, nepi ka Dayang
Sumbi ragrag ucap, sing saha nu daék pangnyokotkeun toropong mun lalaki rék
dijadikeun salaki, mun awéwé rék dijadikeun dulur, ari kurunyung Si Tumang,
anjing jalu.
Sedengkeun légénda Sangkuriang geus aya ti jaman baheula kénéh, lantaran
dina naskah Sunda kuna Bujangga Manik gé
geus nyebutkeun carita Sangkuring.
Dina naskah Sunda kuna Sanghyang
Siksakandang Karesian (1518), rupa-rupa lawon (sigana motifna) disebutkeun aya
kembang muncang, gagang sénggang, sameleg, seumat sahurun, anyam cayut, segeji,
pasi, kalangkang ayakan, poléng rengganis, jayanti, cecempaan, paparakan jeung
réa-réa deui. Nu ngarti kana perkara lawon disebut pengeuyeuk (ahli tekstil).
Cék kapercayaan buhun nu ngageugeuhna dina alat tinun (gedogan, aya deuih
nu nyebut pakara) disebut Pohaci Dewata Heuyeuk, nepi ka lamun rek ninun kudu
nyieun sasajen heula, sangkan lawon nu dihasilkeunana alus tur kuat, jeung
deuih parabot ninun téh teu meunang kaléngkahan, pamali.
Hasil panalungtikan arkéologi di Banten Girang kapanggih sababaraha
hulu gintiran tina taneuh porang keur nyieun benang jeung jarum tambaga. Banten
Girang salah sahiji palabuhan jaman Karajaan Sunda. Ieu teh mere tanda yen di
Banten Girang dina abad X geus aya kamampuh nyieun pakean, malah geus jadi
barang komoditi (Sarjiyanto, makalah, Produksi Pakaian di Banten Girang dina
buku Dinamika Budaya Asia Tenggara-Pasifik, IAAI Jabar, 1998).
Luyu jeung perkembanganana téknologi nyieun pakéan aya tilu tahap nyaéta
nyieun kantéh tina kapas atawa kapuk, ninun nepi ka jadi lawon, sanggeus jadi
lawon tuluy dikaput nepi ka jadi pakéan.
Nu rék didadarkeun dina ieu tulisan mah rupa-rupa parabot ti mimiti meresihan
kapas, nyieun kantéh atawa benang nepi ka jadi lawon.
- Peténg
Alat paranti meresihan kapas nu rék
dipaké keur nyieun kantéh. Kapas, komo kapuk mah sok aya sikina atawa runtah séjén
nu kabawa, sangkan kapas alus dipakéna jadi kantéh kudu diberesihan heula.
Sabenerna nu disebut peténg téh ngan
bagian nu siga gondéwa, gunana keur manteng tali nu dipaké ngeprukan kapas.
Demi talina peténg disebut pondoh, tali ieu nu ngepruk-ngepruk kapas. Ari keur
ngarorod kapas nu napel dina pondoh disebutna cetik.
a. Peténg
b. Pondoh
c. Cetik
- Hindesan
Gunana keur ngagiling kapas bari
sakalian meresihan tina siki kapas nu masih kénéh napel, bisi aya kénéh sanggeus
diberesihan make peténg. Ngagiling kapas téh sangkan urat-urat kapas nu
laleutik jadi leuwih ngahiji tur urat-urat kapasna jadi sajajar, sangkan dina
waktuna digintir, kantéh nu dihasilkeunana leuwih alus tur leuwih kuat.
Ngaran babagian tina hindesan.
a.Alet b. Unjar
c. Tanding (tali nu nguatkeun antara
soko)
d/e. Gulung
f/g. Calingcing, disebut calingcing
pédah siga buah calingcing, wangun buleudanana nu aya huntuan rada nyérong nepi
ka mun diputerkeun salah sahiji nu kaduana ngilu kaputerkeun
h. Soko atawa saka i. Hindesan j. Dadampar atawa dumpal.
- Kincir
Parabot paranti malet kantéh. Kapas sanggeus beresih tur sanggeus digiling
ku hindesan, tuluy dijieun kantéh atawa benang, alatna disebut kincir. Kincir gé sok dipaké
ngagolongan benang kana palet.
Ngaran babagian tina kincir :
a. Ajug atawa tihang kincir b/c.
Injén
d. Kalinden e. Kisi
f. (teu kapaluruh naon ngaranna) g.
Ceuli lambing
h. Pangheuleut unjar i. Unjar
j. Alet m.
Eunteung (éngkeng)
- Undar (huwingan)
Jaman baheula mah supaya kantéh
leuwih kuat sok maké darih (cai panggodogan beas atawa beas ketan), kantéh nu geus meunang ngadarih dibérésan,
dibébérésna dina undar. (Dina buku De
Inlanddsche Kunstnijverheid In Nederlandsch Indie, J.E Jasper dan Mas
Pirngadie, 1912, undar disebut huwingan)
Ngaran babagian tina undar :
a. Suku b. Tihang
c. Imah-imah d.
Tutunggul
e. Daun f. Ayakan (wadah kantéh, bisa baé
wadah séjén)
- Gedogan
Parabot ninun jaman baheula. Cék kamus
Sunda Danadibrata, disebut gedogan lantaran sora nu keur ninun saperti sora
suku kuda nu néjéhan balagbag. Kantéh nu geus bérés supaya jadi lawon tuluy
ditinun dina gedogan, biasana nu sok ninun téh awéwé, malah bisa ninun téh jadi
salah sahiji ciri keur awéwé sangkan boga ajén (binangkit).
Ngaran babagian tina gedogan :
a. Andir b.
Pancuh c. Unjar atawa umpak
atawa dadampar
d. Cakcak atawa gedogan e. Panggulung atawa totogan
f. Galeger g.Titihan h. Limbuhan
i/j. Jingjingan k. Baréra l.
Suri
m. Hapit n. Caor o.
Tali caor
p. Rorogan q. Taropong r.
Palet
Ngaran séjén nu pakait jeung ninun :
Lusi nyaéta benang kantéh nu manjang
sajajar jeung suku nu ninun.
Pakan nyaéta benang kantéh nu manjang
ti kenca ka katuhu nu ninun ( 90 derajat jeung lusi).
Pihanéan alat keur mémérés jeung
manteng kantéh, nu engkena jadi lusi dina gedogan.
Tameuh atawa beubeur tameuh nyaéta
lawon nu ditinun tina kantéh pasésaan, tibatan dipiceun sok tuluy ditinun.
Raraga, sakabéh alat tinun rajeun
disebut raraga.
Tutuding nyaéta sabébék awi atawa kai
keur ngait atawa menerkeun atawa nyokot barang, lantaran teu karongkong ku nu
keur ninun.
Golodogan alat paranti manteng kantéh
bari sakalian diberesihan maké sikat nu dijieun tina tapas.
Ngaran
bagian-bagian tina gedogan, numutkeun R.Hidayat Suryalaga suwargi boga ajén filosofis
diantarana :
Baréra alat keur ngarapetkeun hasil
tinunan ngabogaan harti kasadaran hirup teh kudu loba tobat, keur ngaraketkeun
diri jeung Nu Maha Kawasa.
Caor, alat keur nyarandena nu ninun tur
keur mantengkeun kanteh boga harti sareat hirup mah ukur nyarande kana
papasten.
Galeger, keur pamageuh alat ninun, boga
harti hirup kudu pageuh kana tekad.
Hapit paranti ngagulung lawon nu geus
anggeus ditinun, boga harti eta teh hasil amal ibadah.
Jingjingan, tempat paranti ngasupkeun
lusi, boga harti kudu tafakur atawa kontemplasi.
Sumber
bacaan :
-
Kamus Sunda Danadibrata
-
Kamus Sunda LBSS
- De Inlanddsche Kunstnijverheid In
Nederlandsch Indie (Jilid II), J.E Jasper dan Mas Pirngadie, 1912.
- R.Hidayat Suryalaga, makalah, MAKNA ALAT
TENUN TRADISIONAL MENURUT PADANGAN HIDUP URANG SUNDA, seminar Pameran Alat
Tenun di Museum Jawa Barat - Bandung,
15 Juli 2003.
- Gambar-gambar tina buku De Inlanddsche Kunstnijverheid In Nederlandsch
Indie( Jilid II), J.E Jasper dan Mas Pirngadie, 1912
- Sarjiyanto, makalah, Produksi Pakaian di
Banten Girang,IAAG Jabar 1998
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